Cycling on Exmoor can be hard and unforgiving, but ultimately extremely rewarding. All of these feelings were brought home to me during my ride in the third Smuggler sportive based in Barnstaple, North Devon. It was my first time at this event which was organised by the local bike shop, Bike Shed, with all profits going to FORCE Cancer Charity and North Devon hospice. With a tagline "Miles fly by when you're having rum", I was expecting a good time - and The Smuggler didn't disappoint.
750 riders signed up for the event with a choice of four routes: 20 miles (282 metres of climbing), 40 miles (1214m), 50 miles (1699m) and 80 miles (2707m). The entry fee was £25 in advance for the three longer courses and £15 for the short course. Event HQ was in the centre of Barnstaple on The Square, right next to the clock tower, the river and the Bike Shed shop.
The pre-event online briefing gave details of two free parking spots, both less than a mile away from the start. Not knowing the area at all I went for the park and ride site and entered the relevant postcode in my SatNav. However, this took me down a single track residential street which terminated in a dead end with no sign of any car park. After reversing for a few hundred metres I reset my sights on the second spot at North Devon Leisure Centre. This turned out to be much more agreeable, as it was directly across the river from the start and no more than a two-minute cycle ride away.
The forecast promised to be warm later in the day with the chance of a shower, but it was overcast when I arrived around 8am so I went with the rain jacket as an additional initial layer. Turned out to be a good call. Registration had been open from 7am. This was simple with just a handlebar number and two cable ties. There was also the possibility of registering the previous afternoon for anyone local. Free breakfast of porridge or kedgeree was being served up. However, having already eaten I didn't partake although it looked good.
There were a variety of starting time slots depending on the intended distance. I was down for the 80 miler to start between 8-9am. The latest start time was 10.30am for the 20 milers. There was a swashbuckling pirate in full regalia marshalling riders at the start. The only thing he was missing was the parrot. I lined up just after 8.30am, but it appeared that most of those on the longer route had already departed. We were waved off by the Mayor of Barnstaple.
The three longer courses all took the same route to the first feed station at Simonsbath in Exmoor National Park at 22 miles. I've cycled Exmoor before, but not for a while, and I had forgotten how challenging it can be. Whilst there are not many potholes the road surfaces aren't great and there are hardly any flat sections. The route seemed to go up a bit for a short distance and then down a bit and then more of the same. I found it hard to get into a good rhythm. The expected good weather hadn't materialised and instead it was overcast with the clouds failing to budge due to the lack of wind. The rain came persistently but not too heavy.
The course was well marked at the key points and there was also a timed Strava section up Beara Hill Climb near Brayford which was clearly signposted. I put in some extra effort there only to find that the immediate post-Strava section was even steeper and harder!
I hope it doesn't sound like I'm complaining, as I was enjoying myself - not least because of the scenery. The thatched cottages of the early part of the ride had given way to the wilder Exmoor and there were hardly any cars around.
The feed station was pretty busy when I arrived, including a long queue to get to the actual food. This appeared to be because tea and coffee was being served up immediately after you had grabbed some food, so slowing down the line whilst it was poured out. I think separating the two operations may have made things run smoother. There was a variety of sweet and savoury snacks along with water and squash but no energy drinks. The adjacent tea room toilets were also open for business.
The routes then split and I went straight from the crowds at the feed station to not seeing another rider for miles. There was a long stretch along a quiet A or B road before a left turn towards Dunkery Beacon. This brought with it some personal trepidation following previous unsuccessful ascents during other sportives. Thankfully, it turned out that the climb was from the less steep side. Although the weather was finally starting to clear up, visibility at the top was down to about 20 metres which felt strange on a mid-summer's day.
The route then headed north towards the coast and the next significant milestone was Porlock Hill. There are two roads up the hill. One is a 25% gradient, but we were taking the toll road which averaged about 7%. It had been billed as an alpine style climb and the marketing did not disappoint as this was a fantastic extended climb. It wound up through conifer trees on switchback corners during the early part. There was no traffic and it was great to get in a rhythm and enjoy the view.
About halfway up there was a man in a toll booth the size of a garden shed. The sign indicated "Cyclists £1", but this appeared to be included in the entry as I was just waved through. Eventually the climb opened out as the trees fell away until I reached the top after around half an hour. A great experience, and it was the second timed Strava section on the course.
The course then followed the coastline west for some miles on another fairly quiet main road until arriving in Lynmouth, a small town, popular with tourists and surrounded by hills or the sea on every side. A sign on the descent advised cyclists to dismount due to the downhill gradient. It didn't seem too bad and I stayed in the saddle, although something didn't feel quite right on my bike. When I entered Lynmouth I encountered the Bike Shed van and we established that my front quick release lever was just hanging limply in the forks. Ignorance is bliss I suppose.
There were marshals throughout the route at major junctions and they all had different sorts of pirate hats or regalia on. Lynmouth was the first of two "booty" sections on the longer route, and here I had a choice: I could take on the so-called booty climb, which was just over a kilometre of sustained 23% gradient with the promise of a beer token for a successful ascent; alternatively, I could stick to the main course, which was seven miles further but less steep, before the two routes joined up again. An experienced campaigner had told me earlier that the tokens were only handed out if you cycled the whole climb without getting off to push. Not feeling as energetic as earlier in the day, I plumped for the long route. That still turned out to have an eyeball-popping extended 16% gradient. The 50 mile course also joined up again somewhere on this section.
Soon after the booty section rejoined the main route, the second feed station appeared in a dramatic lcoation. It was in a wooden shack called Lee Abbey Shelter looking down over the sea. There were loads of different sandwiches, crisps, sweets and nuts to choose from along with same choice of drinks as earlier. Those of us gathered on my arrival were towards the back of the day's riders, although not quite carrying the "lanterne rouge". One rider, who had mastered the booty climb, said there was no one giving out beer tokens at the top so I assume they had packed up for the day. I could have done something similar, because although we were only at the 58 mile point the challenging route was taking its toll on my legs.
On leaving the feed station there was another steep climb up from sea level that went on for some time. There was also another booty climb, although it didn't really represent a short cut compared to the first one, just the promise of a potential beer token. Again I stuck to the main route.
Eventually the hill flattened out and the last few miles were kinder and flatter as I headed back to Barnstaple with a small group of others. I crossed the line in under eight hours and picked up my half pint of Smuggler's Ale as the prize. There was a sprint competition on a static bike at the event base, but I was too shattered to get involved.
I really enjoyed this sportive, although I know I underestimated the challenge at the start. The weather warmed up in the afternoon and some of the scenery was amazing. I saw sheep, Exmoor ponies and even a fox cub at one point, and the Porlock Toll climb is not to be missed. Riders and organisers were all really friendly. Well played the Smuggler. Definitely one to look out for next year.
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