Since I caught the ultra racing bug a few years ago, most of my cycling trips now involve a pretty full-on few days of riding round the clock, with maybe a few hours sleep grabbed in a bush shelter, under a tree, or wherever happens to be convenient when the needle hits zero.
But every so often it's nice to have an actual holiday - and, when you throw in a beautiful location with spectacular cycling, the temptation is too much to resist. That's how I found myself flying over to Girona to spend a few days as a guest of GRVL at the Rocacorba Cycling retreat near Banyoles.
UK-based GRVL are making a name for themselves with a small but top quality range of gravel cycling apparel. I didn't realise they also did cycling trips, but after four days at the Rocacorba I'm going to strongly recommend you check them out.
My cycling getaway started with a flight to Girona airport, where I was picked up by a member of the team and driven to our venue, the Rocacorba Cycling.
Keen cyclists may know the name Rocacorba. It's probably the most famous road climb near Girona, and well used by the dozens of pro cyclists and amateurs who use Catalonia's second city as a training base, if not a second home.
What you mightn't know is that there's also a stunning gravel climb up Rocacorba, but we'll come to that a little later.
Arriving at Rocacorba Cycling I felt instantly charmed by this boutique-feeling, character-packed 17th century estate. Sun-warmed sand coloured flagstone paved the terrace and an orange tree, laden with fruit, shaded the arched doorway. It was early afternoon and the temperature was in the mid 20s; a light southerly breeze barely moving the tree's glossy green leaves.
As I was greeted and shown to my room, passing barrel vaulted communal lounge area decorated with chic furnishings, I felt the strains of the working week and the stress of travel slipping off my shoulders as I slid into holiday mode.
As you might expect, this place is run by and expertly set up to cater to the needs of cyclists - in every sense. The wall by the door is adorned with old iron hitching rings for visitors' horses, but a bike stand in the yard offers a clue to the preffered conveyance of guests these days.
A well stocked work station is at our disposal, and I made use of their toolbox to assemble my bike which I'd brought with me. Loan bikes can be arranged, both from GRVL's friends at 1816 Cycles or from the local rental companies, but I was happy to bring my own.
With the bike set up, it was time to get out and explore some of the gravel that the area is famous for. I'd ridden in this area before, when taking part in the Traka 360 a couple of years ago, so I knew roughly what to expect but the GRVL team have tapped their local knowledge to put together an itinerary of excellent gravel routes.
The Rocacorba is located about a mile south of Banyoles, the small city and its famous lake - rowing venue at the 1992 Barcelona Olympics - making an excellent spot for a refreshing post-ride dip. We rode up the west side of the lake on our first spin, a 30km leg loosener heading north as far as the Rio Fluvia river before turning back.
There was a testing climb en route at Centenys, aka "The Wall" on Strava (KOM held by one Ben Healy), which got the legs moving before skirting the eastern side of Banyoles lake again to finish.
Back at the hotel, and with the bikes safely stabled it was time to shower, hang up the cycling kit and unwind.
Dinner provided an ideal opportunity to get to know some of my fellow guests. We were treated to some of the best food you could hope for, a beautifully presented selection of dishes freshly prepared by in the inhouse chef and paired with a selection of wines to help loosen up the dinner table chat as we exchanged names and stories.
The other riders came from a mix of backgrounds; one had travelled over from Dublin, there were a couple of Australians based in London, and a South African and a few English. They were a laid back, lovely bunch and friendships were quickly formed even before we'd turned a pedal.
We discussed the next day's ride, and with some guests opting for a more relaxed pace a shorter distance was suggested and accepted by unanimous decision.
The next day dawned bright and sunny - there's little need to check the weather forecast in this part of Spain in June - and after a delicious breakfast (fresh rolls, cereal, yoghurt, fruit and coffee) we rolled out. Our destination today was the seaside, picking a path east to the coast on a flat, smooth dirt road. The miles ticked by pleasantly and our genial guide, Xevi, kept the group together at a steady conversational pace.
We didn't quite make it as far as the beach, turning back just a short distance from L'Escala. I'd have liked a dip but any lingering FOMO was soon forgotten when we stopped in Parlave for coffee and an array of the most delicious pastries and chocolate croissants.
We lingered almost an hour on this break, enjoying the food and company, before rolling back in the direction of Rocacorba along a different route to that we'd taken earlier in the morning.
The day was still young and so, as we approached our hotel I decided to add in a little solo detour of my own to explore the mountains. I followed a twisting trail upwards and before long had gained 400m elevation on a deserted, chocolate-coloured dirt track surrounded by lush forest.
When I finally swept downhill it was to arrive grimy but happy at the hotel - just in time for a late lunch, and that refreshing swim I'd been looking forward to ...not in the Balearic sea, but plunging into the sparkling azure waters of the pool.
As the next four days slowly unfolded a blissful pattern emerged; a leisurely breakfast, rolling out for the day's ride around 9.30, pausing for coffee and lunch breaks before returning back base to while away the evening in the genial company of the fellow guests. On a couple of occasions I opted to extend the day's riding, taking advice from the GRVL team to explore some of the vast network of gravel tracks and trails in Girona's hinterland.
It's a paradise for the gravel cyclist, with a wealth of routes that would take much longer than a few days to fully do justice - and that's before you even consider the region's well-known road climbs.
Perhaps the best known of these is the Rocacorba, and on Tuesday - the third day - I took the chance to tick this one off my list. Well paved, and with a steady gradient it's a beauty of a climb rising to 970m with plenty of shade from the canopy of trees along much of the ascent.
The final day arrived too soon, and saw the group gather for an "official" group ascent of Rocacorba, followed by a ride into the city of Girona itself.
It may live in the shadow of the Catalan capital, Barcelona, but Girona is a jewel in its own right; Game of Thrones fans will recognise the cathedral as Baelor's Sept in Kings Laning - scene of Circes infamous walk of shame - but of more interest for cyclists is the fact that so many current and former pros have made the city their home.
They have left their mark in the shape of cycling-themed shops, cafes and restaurants, and we dropped into one such establishment for lunch. Hors Categorie is a restaurant owned by Dutch ex racer Robert Gesink, and suitably decorated with an array of bikes, signage and memorabilia spanning the last few decades of cycling history.
We sampled the delights of the kitchen and then, refreshed, set off for our home from home. We stopped off for a last visit to the lake at Banyoles, and there was even time for me to take a spill . Thankfully there was no damage other than to my ego.
Girona would leave a mark on me all the same, and over dinner at the hotel that evening I'm sure I was not alone in making plans for an imminent return.
This was confirmed by several of the gathered company, for whom Girona is already a regular pilgrimage.
"This is probably one of maybe 10 gravel trips I've done," says Steph, 57. "We came here three years ago and I liked it so much I came back.
"It's a great place to stay," she says of the Rocacorba. "Good facilities, comfortable beds, really nice pool, fantastic food, friendly people, really well set up for cycling - and you can cycle literally out of the back door onto either road or gravel.
"There's loads of stunning views, the gravel is nice - it's not too technical, it's kind of straightforward gravel if you're not that experienced, and it's just a lovely place to be."
While it's Steph's first trip with GRVL, she has ridden several of their UK rides in the Chilterns and is full of praise. In fact, when pushed she has only one suggestion for possible improvement.
"The routes that we were given weren't always what was followed," she observes, which is fine if you're confident in your bike handling skills and your ability to get home, but for some people that might be an issue; for example if you hadn't done much gravel and you weren't sure of where you were going.
"I would say possibly they need another ride captain or another guide to cover font and back of the group. And it's difficult because obviously we were a very mixed ability group, but I think a lot of groups will be mixed ability.
"I love being outdoors somewhere where people are very cycling-friendly and there's just so much scope for anything - and you feel very safe," she concludes.
The positive vibes are echoed by another rider I speak to, Henry Kennedy.
"The venue is amazing, I don't think i can actually fault it, it's the most beautiful setting," she enthuses. "Everything is provided for: the bike mechanic, the rooms are lovely, the food is amazing, I really can't fault it - although there's no full length mirror anywhere!" she laughs.
"Everyone's super friendly, all the people who run the GRVL and the venue are super friendy, I felt very included - I mean I'm quite a lot older than a lot of people and that wasn't an issue, I'm not as fit as everybody but I felt included, I loved it."
As for the pace and distance of the rides, Henry appreciated the chance to pick and choose how far to ride, and the option to tailor the day's riding depending on how she felt.
"The first day was challenging for me, because people went fast," she says, "but then I decided that I'm not going to break myself doing that and I'm going to stick to my own pace. Tinks (the ride captain, and GRVL Director) looked after me and I felt fine and I really enjoyed it then.
"The next day, it was good that there was an option for a slower, quieter, more social ride and I really enjoyed that, we had lots of laughs. So having two types of ride to choose from was good for me, I really enjoyed it.
"I have to say, I've been super impressed: 10 out of 10."
I'd have no arguments on that score.
All good things come to an end, and after a magic few days escape in the hills it was time to pack up the bike and return to the airport.
But, looking out the aeroplane window at the Catalonian mountains spread out below me, I already knew one thing for sure: I will be back.
Peter stayed at the Rocacorba as a guest of GRVL. A four day trip including shared room, breakfast & dinner, guided rides, evening entertainment and full use of the resort's facilities costs £1350. Find out more about GRVL's gravel cycling trips at grvl.cc/blogs/news/gravel-holiday.
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